When I held the pre-cut tints up against the outside of the windows, I decided that they were a bit larger than what I felt I could easily tuck behind the rubber moldings with my squeegee, so I measured and trimmed some off the bottom and sides of the tints before installation. I did clean all of the rubber really well, and I used pieces of blue painter masking tape to pull back the bottom weather strip, taping it to hold it away from the window glass. Surprisingly, even the 50% tint dramatically reduces the thermal heating I feel on my arms through the front windows.Īs for the installation, I removed no trim panels and no weatherstripping. I didn't want to deal with the inspection hassles of darker tints and certainly don't ever want to have to remove and reapply these. I went with just 50% tint which is the maximum legal front window tint here in Utah.
#JEEP TINTED WINDOW PROFESSIONAL#
They look great but if I had to do it again I would probably opt for professional installation.
#JEEP TINTED WINDOW WINDOWS#
I installed my pre-cut tints on the front windows yesterday.
#JEEP TINTED WINDOW DRIVER#
Wish I had taken pictures, but I left the Camera at home I will make sure to properly document it when I remove the driver doors paneling again to replace my sloppy handywork.
(putting this back in can be a bit of a PITA) Once you are down to one of the corners, pull the rubber straight up and out of the door, repeat for the opposite end of the door. To remove the weatherstripping around the door frame, start pulling it down from the center of the window working your way in one direction. Remove the interior weather strip by pulling it up. Reconnect the window controls and roll the window down. I would suggest putting the bolts back in the hold the window track in place, I did and it kept the glass from flopping all over the place. The door panel is now free, I did not find it necessary to disconnect the linkage for the handle or remove the lock button. You will need to lift the panel about 1/2" to get them to release. One in each top corner, and one in the middle on the bottom. There are 3 plastic tabs on the door that hold it in place. You can then slide the brace over and the tabs will release.
There is a screw holding said plastic brace to the door, but it is screwed in form the inside of the door, you will need a short driver with a T-25 on it to remove the it. On the door panel very close to the latching mechanism, there is a white plastic brace. There are 3 Torx screws that hold the window motor in place, it is not necessary to remove them. behind where the armrest should be there a 2 bolts to remove. Now you will need to remove the bolts from the door panel, there are 3 along the bottom edge, and one on the front edge. Disconnect the speaker wiring harness and pop the speaker wire out of the little groove cut into the door panel for it. Pry off the speaker cover, remove the 4 torx screws that hold it in place, be aware of where you took them out of the speaker, as there are 2 different types of screw holding the speaker in. The armrest is held in by nothing more than a bunch of trim-clips, it is a bit tough, but it will pull off. At this point you can remove the armrest portion of the door that contains all of the power controls, be aware that there a 2 plastic tethers that you will need to disconnect from the armrest. Pry off the little caps inside of the door 'closer' and the larger cap behind the release lever, remove the torx screws. Start by removing the large cap by the mirror, just pull it off, disconnect the power mirror and the connector left attached to the door will slide upwards off of the clip that holds it there. You will need a 10mm socket with an extension, 2 Torx bits/drivers (T-20 and T-25) and a flat heat screwdriver for removing a couple of caps. The door does come off in several pieces.
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